Siddharth Kasliwal, from the storied family-owned jewellery house Munnu Gem Palace, describes polki diamonds as reflecting “light as if the sun were shining on a beautiful body of water”.

It is the most ancient diamond cut, and also described as 'softly glowing like the moon,' this diamond evokes a sense of dreamy romance.

Polki: The Diamond Of The Mughals, What Are They? 

In its natural state, a polki diamond is raw, uncut, and unpolished, a part of the culture and traditions of the Mughals. It has been used in jewellery for over 2,500 years. Before ‌faceted polkis, polkis were used in their natural, unfaceted state.

Rajputs, a higher caste of Indians, later popularised uncut diamonds in jewellery, especially wedding jewellery, and after that, Indian royal families started using polki diamonds in their jewellery pieces.

It is now possible to make Polki jewellery with diamonds that look like modern cut diamonds, such as round brilliants, cushions, and princess cuts. 

Western jewellery makers use various materials but are often laser-cut into proportional pieces, polished, and faceted lightly. However, compared to traditional polkis, these are more brilliant and clear.

Syndicate, Zimbabwe, and Khilwas are the three types of polkis. Of the three, Syndicate is better, followed by Zimbabwean polki, which refers to diamonds from Zimbabwe in Africa. Khalwas are typically those of low quality.

How To Choose The Right Polki Diamonds

The Colour

A polki diamond's colour is its most important characteristic. The natural state of polkis is typically brown or yellow when unpolished. A clearer polki will fetch a higher price than one with many visible colours.

The Clarity

A diamond's clarity is determined by its inclusion ratio. Inclusion-free polkis are preferred by jewellery designers. There is a direct relationship between the value of polki and the number of inclusions. As a result, polki diamonds are often valued based on their clarity rather than their carat weight. There are fewer inclusions in raw uncut diamonds than in diamonds with too many inclusions and a lot of carat weight.

The Treatment

It is sometimes possible to enhance the appearance of polki diamonds by treating them. A certain amount of filler is added to the stone by jewellery designers to improve its clarity and colour. When making commercial-grade jewellery, Khilwas polki is the most difficult because it has too many visible colours and inclusions.

Engagement Rings With Polki Diamonds

It is common for brides to want a unique design and the largest stone their budget will allow. Polki diamonds meet both criteria. Pippa Small, a London-based designer, explained why polki diamonds are an excellent investment. 

According to her, "Polki diamonds have a wider spread than round diamonds, allowing a low setting and larger impression,"  A designer who specialises in natural jewellery prefers the unevenness of diamonds, "They feel more organic and less 'transformed' from the natural material."

She said a person's style also plays a role, not just price. An engagement ring featuring polki diamonds is for the bride who wants something unique and natural but also quite adventurous.

Is It Worth Buying Polkis?

Uncut polki diamonds are appraised based on their overall look and organic style rather than the 4Cs. So it is not surprising how much less expensive and of less value polki are than cut diamonds, even though they are raw, natural, and purest in form. Furthermore, due to their cloudy nature, lack of clarity, colour grade, and faceting, other diamonds tend to be more attractive than polkis.

Are polki diamonds worth buying based on this information? 

These raw diamonds are not worth buying if you intend to sell them later for a profit. You cannot resell raw, uncut, and unpolished diamonds to their original owners once you buy them. It is impossible to melt, repurpose, or reuse polki diamonds as cut diamonds can.

Conclusion

Traditionally, polki is associated with Indian rituals, rites, and celebrations. The contemporary fashion scene is noting these jewellery designs.

In modern jewellery design, polki is recreated with wearable, versatile, and functional attributes in mind. You can be sure to find a jeweller with exactly the polki diamond piece you're looking for if you're looking for a modern rendition.

FAQs

Polki jewellery is made of what?

A gold foil is used to make Polki jewellery with intricate designs on the back. These gold foils are then used to secure the uncut diamonds. 

What is the certification status of Polki diamonds?

Certification & Validation of Traditional Jadau & Polki Jewellery - Confluence of 'Regalia' & 'Assurance' The International Gemological Institute (IGI) certifies traditional Jadau and Polki jewellery as one of the largest independent gem certification companies in the world.

Polki is inexpensive for what reason?

The raw, uncut form of diamonds is called polki. Unlike other diamonds, English polki undergoes chemical treatment. It has a rustic appearance because of its lack of clarity in colour.